Taiwan, Leg One

It's been an eventful initial days here in Taiwan. I've been able to see a tranquil alternative to the hustle and bustle of the big city metropolis life, spending my time in the mountains of Central and Southern Taiwan.

Had a really good conversation at 4 AM with my mom over cookies and coffee on our balcony overlooking Sun Moon Lake the morning after we checked in. The dusk hours here are the best because the cool air mixes with the humidity to create very comfortable outside lounging weather.

Went for a short stroll along the shoreline and rowed out onto the lake with True for kicks. Entertained the existence of sea monsters and aquatic zombies as we braved the blue-green waters. Ernest Hemingway would have been proud.

This whole time has been really relaxing and conducive to some heavy reflection time sprinkled with magnificent environments for a good book-snuggling and omnipresent eating. Food in Taiwan is the best. Super good, super cheap. I'm just waiting in eager anticipation for my next meal. I'm already counting down the seconds 'til lunch today. Never in my life have my smiles been so dependent on steaming soup, yummy noodles, and salty, spicy meat.

We left the lake towards Alishan, a national park area up in the mountains. Our car started leaking coolant along the way so we stopped at a garage shop in a very isolated location. The owners were just about as friendly as humanly possible. They invited us to sit with them and poured us the best oolong tea I've had (a locally grown specialty). We chatted about American culture, Taiwan politics, and contrasting education systems. The whole time I felt reminded of how incredibly privileged I am by class, with a family that's struggled through immigration and assimilation for my sister and I, and having been able to be born and raised in the States. This mother only dreams of sending her kids to America to study and find a higher standard of living, instead she's lived in the same village her entire life and her studious children can't afford to study anywhere out of Taiwan's borders no matter how hard they work. The myth of meritocracy inherent in capitalism is on full display here.

Cutting through the narrow mountain roads, we feast our eyes on lush mountains of emerald covered in thick, grey fog. Once at Alishan, we hike through some trails and get personally acquainted with giant trees: most over 800 years old and one over 2,000 years old. When Jesus Christ was alive, SO WAS THIS TREE. Pretty fucking cool. The hiking is much, much shorter than I'd like it to be. I wanted to sleep inside the park, but we leave for free bed and breakfast rooms at a family friend's inn nearby.

A charming house later, we enjoy an adorably fancy meal. Van Gogh paintings, sunflowers, and wooden planks give the building an arborescent, Dutch vibe. I've fallen in love with waking at dawn, and the morning at this pleasant setting was no exception. We took to the roof of the establishment. The sun rose at 6:09 AM on September 22nd, 2007 in Xi Zuo to a coffee breath and my smiling face.

I also visited the temple where my grandparents' ashes are kept and paid my respects. It was initially closed, but the nice lady allowed us in after explaining we had traveled across the Pacific for the opportunity. Ate lunch in Chiayi with family with what can be best described as bomb-ass turkey & gravy rice. Doesn't sound like much but dude, it's damn tasty.

Now I'm back in Taipei. Time to speed things up with about double the family in the area and the stark urban sprawl of buildings, cars, and pedestrians. Stay classy, friends. Wild city nights on the way.